The Perfect 3 Days in Buenos Aires Itinerary by a Local

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Last updated: July 2019

How to spend three days in Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires is a large city, massive really. You can easily spend a week or two here and never get bored! When I came for for the first time in 2009, I spent two weeks here. I thought I would explore more of Argentina, but I spent all fourteen days discovering Buenos Aires.

I never got bored. And now having lived here for 9 years, I can honestly say I still have yet to run out of new things to see.

Don’t underestimate the time this city needs and if you have the time to spare, spend at least a week here. Unfortunately, time is a luxury that we don't always have. If you find yourself limited on time, a lot can be done in only a few days! If you only have three days in Buenos Aires, this is the perfect itinerary to hit all the highlights.

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Where to Stay in Buenos Aires

First, let’s talk Buenos Aires accommodation. In such a big city, choosing where to stay can be overwhelming. I recommend basing yourself in Palermo Soho or Palermo Hollywood.

These two areas are home to the city’s cutest boutiques and best restaurants and nightlife. By staying here, you’ll be able to return to your hotel or Airbnb to freshen up and rest before heading back out to dinner nearby.

Airbnb is really the best option in Buenos Aires. You can get an apartment all to yourself for as little as $30-50 US a night. Search here for the best Airbnbs in Palermo.

If you’d rather stay in a hotel (because sometimes having breakfast prepared for you while housekeeping makes up your room is just too good to pass up), I always recommend Home Hotel in Palermo Hollywood. It’s such a cute boutique hotel with a beautiful green yard to escape the craziness of the big city.

FOR A COMPLETE GUIDE ON ALL THE BEST NEIGHBORHOODS, HOTELS, HOSTELS & AIRBNB’S READ MY POST ON WHERE TO STAY IN BUENOS AIRES

The calm, tree lined neighborhood of Palermo is one of the best places in stay in Buenos Aires

The calm, tree lined neighborhood of Palermo is one of the best places in stay in Buenos Aires

Wherever you decide to stay, I offer you this one important pearl of wisdom. Avoid the strip of hotels lining the Avenida 9 de Julio. There are so many hotels there, but it’s not a great place to stay.

There’s a lot of traffic (foot and vehicle) and the lights are bright and it’s loud. I also feel less safe there after dark. If you want to be closer to the center, find a place in San Telmo near Defensa Street instead.

Day 0: Arrival in Buenos Aires

I may be cheating a bit with this Buenos Aires in 3 days itinerary because I'm not counting the day you arrive. Most flights into Buenos Aires are overnight, arriving in the morning or midday, so you'll actually have quite a bit of daylight to take advantage of.

Since you'll be understandably tired from your long trip, take it easy today. I recommend exploring the shops and cafes of Palermo Soho. The cobblestone streets of Soho are filled with restaurants and coffee shops to ease you into your vacation.

If the weather is sunny, take a taxi to the Bosques de Palermo parks. You can rent roller blades, lounge on the grass or stop to smellthe roses in the Rosedal rose garden.


For more information on how to get to your hotel from the airport, exchanging money and more, read my Buenos Aires city guide.


Day 1: Teatro Colon, Downtown & Plaza de Mayo

On your first full day in Buenos Aires, wake up for an early breakfast in the heart of downtown on Corrientes Avenue. Choose between La Giralda (Av. Corrientes 1453) and El Gato Negro (Av. Corrientes 1669).

El Gato Negro is a Buenos Aires institution, selling spices and teas on it’s antique bar.

El Gato Negro is a Buenos Aires institution, selling spices and teas on it’s antique bar.

Both are no-frills old-school cafes. La Giralda is famous for its churros and hot chocolate. El Gato Negro offers a bit more ambiance and also sells a wide variety of spices and teas.

Sit and enjoy a slow breakfast (service isn't exactly speedy in these sorts of cafes) and people watch. I particularly love watching the older men sit with their newspapers. They've probably been coming here every day or week for years.

Tribunales in Lavalle Square in Buenos Aires

Tour the Teatro Colon Opera House

After breakfast, stroll down Avenida Corrientes and take a left on Talcahuano to make your way to Lavalle Square. This large plaza is home to some impressive buildings like the Tribunales Courthouse and your next destination: the Teatro Colon Opera House.

I only recently toured Teatro Colon and I wish I had done it sooner. It's opulent and decadent. For one hour, you would be forgiven for believing you are in Paris.

There are guided tours every fifteen minutes, between 9 am and 5 pm. There are certain holidays when they're closed and times may vary if there are morning or afternoon shows that day. Double check tour information on their official site here.

9 de Julio Avenue & the Obelisk

After your tour, pour yourself back into the chaos of the busy downtown streets. Two blocks from the Teatro Colon at the intersection of 9 de Julio & Diagonal Norte, there’s a newly constructed staircase and balcony viewpoint of the Obelisk.

Make your way here for the perfect view of this Buenos Aires icon. Take photos but also take in the organized chaos of the traffic below. The stairs here are the perfect stop to pause to rest your feet before continuing on.

From here, cross 9 de Julio to take a photo in front of the ivy covered BA in front of the Obelisco. This massive avenue was named after Argentina's independence day. This is one of the widest avenues in the world (the Eixo Monumental in Brasilia recently stole the world record away from us).

While it may not be the world’s widest, it’s still impressive. Avenida 9 de Julio is wider than a city block at 110 meters and has as many as 7 lanes in each direction.

The obelisk in Buenos Aires 9 de Julio Avenue

After getting the perfect postcard worthy shot, take a left on Corrientes for lunch at one of the avenue's famous pizzerias.

Lunch at Las Cuartetas

There are a number of pizzerias on Corrientes all serving pizza by the slice, so walk two blocks from 9 de Julio Avenue to Las Cuartetas at Av. Corrientes 838.

You can order a slice from the cashier and sit at one of the tiny tables up front or sit at a table in the back and order from a waiter. The pizza here is thick, heavy on the cheese and light on the sauce, so come hungry!



The best pizza in Buenos Aires
Florida Street is a pedestrian street in the heart of Buenos Aires’ downtown.

Florida Street is a pedestrian street in the heart of Buenos Aires’ downtown.

Florida Street and Galeria Guemes Viewpoint

After lunch, you'll be ready to walk off the heavy pizza so hit the pavement! Find your way to Florida Street. This heavily commercial street lined by shops has been a street in one form or another since the 1500's when it started as a muddy footpath from the river.

The city skyline view from Galeria Guemes

Walk to Galería Güemes at Florida 165. Find the elevators to take you to the viewpoint terrace on the fourteenth floor. Prices tend to change often in Buenos Aires but it should cost more or less between the equivalent of $2-3 US.

This is one of the cheapest panoramic views in town! You'll pay your entrance fee at the top. Before going, confirm hours and price on their official site here.

Plaza de Mayo

Next stop, the iconic Plaza de Mayo. This main square is home to so much history and so many iconic Argentina landmarks. The Metropolitan Cathedral is stoic, looking much more like the Pantheon than a church.

Inside, however, it very much resembles a cathedral and is worth a visit. San Martin's remains are buried in a chapel here.

The Metropolitan Cathedral in Plaza de Mayo

The Cabildo sits on the end of the plaza opposite the Casa Rosada. You'll see a Cabildo on the main square in every major Argentine city, they were the seats of government while the country was under Spanish colonial rule.

The museum here is free to visit and has some interesting artifacts to see if you're interested in Argentine history. The second story balcony offers a great view of the square (seen below).

The Plaza de Mayo in downtown Buenos Aires with a view of the Casa Rosada

The Casa Rosada at the front of the plaza is the star of the show. The pink government house, famous for Madonna singing not to cry for her Argentina from its main balcony, is open for guided tours on Saturdays.

Check availability and reserve your tour here (you have to reserve at least 15 days ahead of time and bring your passport or DNI with you).

The modern neighborhood of Puerto Madero in Buenos Aires

Cafe Tortoni or Puerto Madero

After Plaza de Mayo, choose your own adventure. If you're in the mood for a coffee and a rest, make your way to Cafe Tortoni, Buenos Aires' oldest coffee shop, on Avenida de Mayo.

If you want to keep exploring, take a walk through Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires' youngest neighborhood behind the Casa Rosada.

Puerto Madero was remodeled and brought back to life in the 1990's, with skyscraper apartment towers, cafes, and nice restaurants opening in old warehouses.

The area behind the Casa Rosada has recently been remodeled, making it much easier to cross over to Puerto Madero than ever before.

Dinner and a Tango Show

When in Buenos Aires, tango! Catch dinner and a show to see this world-famous dance in the city where it was born. I took my parents to this tango show and dinner at El Querandi and we all loved it! The food was great and the show and production were very impressive and entertaining.

If you're looking for less of a produced show and more of an interactive experience, you'll need to visit a milonga (a tango dancehall). However, milongas can be intimidating if you don't know what you're doing.

The locals take it very seriously! I recommend a tour like this one that includes a dance lesson. Visiting with a local guide is the best way to learn the dance and visit a milonga like a local.



Day 2: Paris of South America in Recoleta

We covered a LOT of ground on the first day in Buenos Aires itinerary. This was on purpose. I personally like to see as much as possible the first day.

This allows me to relax a bit more for the rest of the trip, and if it rains later in the trip at least I'll have seen as much as possible before the storm! On your second day in Argentina, I recommend visiting the upscale neighborhood of Recoleta.

Stone mausoleums and tombs in the Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires

Visit Recoleta Cemetery

No Buenos Aires itinerary is complete without a visit to the Recoleta Cemetery. In this maze of mausoleums and crypts lie Argentina's nobility, past presidents and generals. It's a veritable walk through the history of Argentina.

Entrance is free and while you absolutely don't need a guided tour to visit, a walking tour like this one can be helpful if you're interested in learning a bit of history while you're there. Some of the anecdotes about the tombs and its residents are more interesting than you'd expect!

Artisinal Market in Plaza Francia

The square in front of the cemetery, Plaza Francia, is home to a weekly market every weekend. Being one of the best markets in Buenos Aires, it’s a great place to souvenir shop!

It takes place on both Saturday and Sunday, with artisans selling anything and everything. In the afternoon, musicians perform at the base of the grassy hill making it the perfect place to lay back and relax if the weather is sunny.

Two women sit on a bench in a park filled with stands selling handicrafts in a Recoleta Market in Buenos Aires

Floralis Generica

Don't leave Recoleta without taking a look at the enormous metal flower across Alcorta Avenue next to the columned Law School building in United Nations Square.

This large aluminum flower was gifted to the city by an architect as a show of appreciation for the city that made him who he was.

Visit the Floralis Generica in Recoleat

The Mansions of Avenida Alvear

Walk down Alvear Avenue for a glimpse into why Buenos Aires is referred to as the Paris of South America. Mansions turned luxury hotels line the street here, reminiscent of a wealthier time in Argentina's history.

Step into Arandu at Ayacucho 1920 for the best souvenir shopping in town. This polo style saddle shop sells high-quality leather bags, polo clothing (think Ralph Lauren) and alpargatas (the original Toms) at very affordable prices.

If you’re wondering what to get in Buenos Aires, read my post here about the best cultural souvenirs you should bring home. But even if you don’t want to shop, Arandu’s stunning three-story mansion is worth the visit whether or not you purchase anything.

Dinner in Palermo Soho or Hollywood

I find myself having a hard time choosing ONE restaurant to recommend for dinner tonight, so I'll stop trying to choose and give you two great wine and dinner options.

We're all adults here capable of making our own choices so pick the option that sounds best for you and grab a fork!

  1. DINNER IN PALERMO SOHO: Whet your appetite with a glass of wine at Facon in Palermo Soho. This wine shop has an impressive wine menu at very affordable prices as well as a shop selling artisan goods from across Argentina. Have dinner a couple blocks away at Don Julio, home to one of the best steaks in Buenos Aires if not the world, seriously, it's SO good. Reserve ahead of time here, they book up!!

  2. DINNER IN PALERMO HOLLYWOOD: Whet your appetite with wine at Hache on Carranza Street in Palermo Hollywood. After wine, walk a couple blocks down Carranza to the politically charged Peron Peron. The political extremism had deterred me from visiting before, but friends convinced me to go recently and ya'll, those empanadas were some of the best I've ever had. You'll need a reservation.

La Boca and the old port in Buenos Aires

Day 3: La Boca & San Telmo

Try to do today's itinerary on a Sunday if possible. The weekly San Telmo Market takes place every Sunday and it's a real Buenos Aires highlight and a must-visit if you're in town on a weekend.

Sleep in today and enjoy a leisurely start to your day. The market doesn't really get moving until the afternoon and El Caminito in La Boca really doesn't require much time to explore.

Have a relaxing breakfast or brunch then take a taxi to La Boca to begin your day. Aim for starting your day at El Caminito at around 11 am.

The colorful walls in El Caminito La Boca

El Caminito in La Boca

I say take a taxi because La Boca is far to the south of the city, so hail a cab on the street or use Uber or Cabify to get to El Caminito. This open-air museum is colorful, lively and likely what's on the cover of your Lonely Planet.

Take a stroll on the few blocks that make up the Caminito, taking photos of the colorful walls and tango dancers. You can even take your own tango photo with one of the performers for a small price (a cheesy but fun souvenir!).

Don't miss the conventillo style homes turned souvenir shops. These former multi-family dwellings are iconic to La Boca. Wealthy families fled to the northern suburbs during the yellow fever outbreak in the 1700’s.

Less fortunate families were left behind in southern neighborhoods like La Boca. Previously single family homes became conventillos: multi-family tenement housing. Entire families shared one room, with multiple families living in each home, sharing the common spaces.

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Lunch at El Oberero

After El Caminito, have lunch at El Obrero. This traditional bodegon style restaurant has been open since 1954. The walls are covered in soccer memorabilia and photos of celebrities who've visited in the past.

Order the calamari and tortilla, they’re the house specialties. El Obrero is very busy here on the weekends so make a reservation ahead of time or expect a wait.

 
The old barrio of San Telmo in historic Buenos Aires
 

San Telmo

After lunch, take your taxi or ride sharing option of choice to San Telmo. If you're visiting on a Sunday for the market, I recommend starting at Plaza de Mayo, right at the beginning. From here, walk down Defensa towards Plaza Dorrego.

The San Telmo Market takes place every Sunday and really gets going in the afternoon (this is not a city meant for the early riser). There are stalls covering this street for ten blocks, with the antiques located mainly in Dorrego Square.

Not visiting on a Sunday? Don't worry, San Telmo is still beautiful and you'll love visiting this historic neighborhood. Even without the Sunday market, there are still antiques galore, check out the indoor market at Carlos Calvo 471.

This market is also becoming a gastro-hub, filled with new restaurants and bars alongside stalls selling all sorts of antiques. Have a drink or coffee in Plaza Dorrego.

Walk and explore Defensa and Balcarce streets, the cobblestone streets and buildings here are beautiful (decaying but beautiful and covered in street art).

I have a San Telmo guide here explaining not only the market but listing museums and activities to do here if you can’t be here on a Sunday.

The best steak in Buenos Aires at Desnivel in San Telmo

The best steak in Buenos Aires at Desnivel in San Telmo

Dinner in San Telmo

Hungry? How about a steak? You may be steaked out by now but it's Argentina! You need to get your fill of steak and red wine while you can.

Coincidentally, my favorite steak in all of Buenos Aires (even more than Don Julio) is at Desnivel right here in San Telmo (on Defensa Street).

So, make your way to Desnivel and order a bottle of your favorite Malbec. Start your meal with one of their beef empanadas, they're super juicy! For your main dish, I recommend ordering one of their lomo (tenderloin) plates.

I'm partial to their lomo a la mostaza (tenderloin in a creamy mustard sauce). My husband prefers their lomo a la pimienta (with a peppercorn sauce).

After Dinner Coffee at Cafe Dorrego

Ignore the out of place Starbucks across the street when you walk through the doors to Cafe Dorrego in front of Plaza Dorrego (just three blocks from Desnivel). Cafe Dorrego appears to be frozen in time, frozen in another century. Sip on your cortado or cafe con leche to end both the night and a successful three days in Buenos Aires.

More than Three Days in Buenos Aires

If you have more time to spend than only 4 nights in Buenos Aires, you can spread this three day Buenos Aires itinerary out over more days at a more leisurely pace.

There are so many things to do in Buenos Aires and there's really no such thing as too much time.

Here are some options to add onto this itinerary:


Read more about Buenos Aires:


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